PYGMY CHAMELEON CARE SHEET!
General Information

A male Rhampholeon Kerstenii

Click image to enlarge.

There are many different types of Pygmy Chameleons that have become increasingly popular recently, these include the Bearded Pygmy Chameleon (Rhampholeon brevicaudatus ) and the Kenyan Pygmy Chameleon (Rhampholeon Kerstenii) are generally the most common in petshops. They are relatively easy to care for but can be a little tricky to maintain when it comes to temperature in warm weather. Pygmy Chameleons stay very small, with adults growing no bigger than 8cm front nose to tip. They live between 2-5 years in captivity. They originate from Africa and Madagascar. We would not recommend pygmy chameleons as a first chameleon/reptile as although they are not difficult to care for, they are not a very hardy species and small mistakes can be fatal. This care sheet will guide you through the various aspects of caring for Pygmy Chameleons, covering all topics required to keep them successfully.

Housing

Pygmy Chameleons only need small setups which is great for those who don't have room for a large enclosure. A 30x30x30cm / 30x3045cm glass exo-terra or any small fish tank (with no gaps to escape but it will need some kind of ventilation like an exo-terra has a mesh top). They do need a decent amount of humidity so although there is a variety of enclosures you could house them in we would recommend an exo-terra a it hold humidity but also allows good airflow with a mesh top. In the wild pygmy chameleons blend in with the debris of the forest flooring, so in captivity they need alot of foliage for them to hide and feel secure in. Vines and bark also make good decor and gives them something to climb upon. Pygmy chameleons can live in pairs/groups of one or mixed sexes. They will generally not drink from a water bowl and if the water is more than a few mm's they can drown in it so its best not to give them a water bowl and just to spray the enclosure with water 1-2 times per day and they will lick the water droplets, this also keeps the humidity up.

Substrate
So what substrate should you use on the bottom of your vivarium? You have several choices, these are listed below, along with any advantages and disadvantages of each one.

Coco fibre/ eco earth - Advantages: holds humidity very well, looks natural. Disadvantages: can be messy removing/changing, can mould if kept too warm/damp.
Orchid bark - Advantages: looks natural, easy to change, hold himidity. Disadvantages: pieces of bark may get caught on their tongue when feeding and cause impactation.
Kitchen roll - Advantages: Easy to change, cheap. Disadvantages: looks very unnatural, wont hold any humidity.

Heating
Pygmy Chameleons do not require and specific heating, as the temperature in which they thrive is 75*f within the day dropping to around 65*f at night, which in most households is room temperature. Over heating is one of the biggest killers to pygmy chameleons anything above 80*f will cause overheating and possibly kill them in a short time. A fan regulating cool air towards/into the enclosure in the summer may be needed or an air-conditioning system in the room they are kept may be needed in order to keep them alive over the summer months.
Lighting
As with heating pygmy chameleons do not require any specific lighting, it has been tested by many breeders providing some with UV lighting any others without, this made no difference to their health, appearance, lifespan, activity levels or anything else apparent. This is probably due to although they are from bright sunny areas of the world as they are floor dwellers they would see little light or UV rays on the forest floor.
Food / Supplements

Pygmy Chameleons are very small and as babys pinhead crickets or small fruit flies should be fed daily, preferably in the morning hours. As the pygmy's get to adult size the can feed on slightly larger food but as adults will most likely still be on small to small/medium crickets due to their size. We have found the best way for them to find the food and feed well is to embed a small tub into their substrate so the top of it is at floor level, we then dropped the food into the tub making it easy for the chameleons to see and catch.
All the pygmy chameleons food needs to be supplemented with calcium and its also a good idea to gutload their food with either a gutload formula or a piece of fruit or veg, this provides the chameleons food with a source of water which in turn is also good at keeping the chameleon itself hydrated.

Cleaning
As they are so small pygmy chameleons are very small the amount of mess they make is also very small. Spot cleaning can be very awkward, a full change of substrate and wipe over all the enclosures plants/vines with a watered down reptile disinfectant every 2-3 months. Their food bowl if they have one should be wiped out weekly as calcium/live foods faeces may begin to build up.
Sexing
Pygmy Chameleons are relatively easy to sex, males are smaller and slimmer than females and have longer tails, females have shorter tails and their bodies look rounder / taller than that of a males, males also show more colouring/patterns on their body whereas females tend to have a plain / more dull appearance.

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