| General
Information |
|
A
male Rhampholeon Kerstenii

Click image to enlarge.
There are many different types of
Pygmy Chameleons that have become increasingly
popular recently, these include the Bearded Pygmy
Chameleon (Rhampholeon brevicaudatus ) and the
Kenyan Pygmy Chameleon (Rhampholeon Kerstenii) are
generally the most common in petshops. They are
relatively easy to care for but can be a little
tricky to maintain when it comes to temperature in
warm weather. Pygmy Chameleons stay very small,
with adults growing no bigger than 8cm front nose
to tip. They live between 2-5 years in captivity.
They originate from Africa and Madagascar. We
would not recommend pygmy chameleons as a first
chameleon/reptile as although they are not
difficult to care for, they are not a very hardy
species and small mistakes can be fatal. This care
sheet will guide you through the various aspects
of caring for Pygmy Chameleons, covering all
topics required to keep them successfully.
|
| Housing |
|
Pygmy
Chameleons only need small setups which is great
for those who don't have room for a large
enclosure. A 30x30x30cm / 30x3045cm glass exo-terra
or any small fish tank (with no gaps to escape but
it will need some kind of ventilation like an exo-terra
has a mesh top). They do need a decent amount of
humidity so although there is a variety of
enclosures you could house them in we would
recommend an exo-terra a it hold humidity but also
allows good airflow with a mesh top. In the wild
pygmy chameleons blend in with the debris of the
forest flooring, so in captivity they need alot of
foliage for them to hide and feel secure in. Vines
and bark also make good decor and gives them
something to climb upon. Pygmy chameleons can live
in pairs/groups of one or mixed sexes. They will
generally not drink from a water bowl and if the
water is more than a few mm's they can drown in it
so its best not to give them a water bowl and just
to spray the enclosure with water 1-2 times per
day and they will lick the water droplets, this
also keeps the humidity up.
|
| Substrate |
| So what
substrate should you use on the bottom of your
vivarium? You have several choices, these are
listed below, along with any advantages and
disadvantages of each one.
Coco
fibre/ eco earth - Advantages: holds
humidity very well, looks natural. Disadvantages:
can be messy removing/changing, can mould if kept
too warm/damp.
Orchid bark - Advantages: looks
natural, easy to change, hold himidity.
Disadvantages: pieces of bark may get caught on
their tongue when feeding and cause impactation.
Kitchen roll - Advantages: Easy to
change, cheap. Disadvantages: looks very
unnatural, wont hold any humidity.
|
| Heating |
| Pygmy
Chameleons do not require and specific heating, as
the temperature in which they thrive is 75*f
within the day dropping to around 65*f at night,
which in most households is room temperature. Over
heating is one of the biggest killers to pygmy
chameleons anything above 80*f will cause
overheating and possibly kill them in a short
time. A fan regulating cool air towards/into the
enclosure in the summer may be needed or an
air-conditioning system in the room they are kept
may be needed in order to keep them alive over the
summer months. |
| Lighting |
| As with
heating pygmy chameleons do not require any
specific lighting, it has been tested by many
breeders providing some with UV lighting any
others without, this made no difference to their
health, appearance, lifespan, activity levels or
anything else apparent. This is probably due to
although they are from bright sunny areas of the
world as they are floor dwellers they would see
little light or UV rays on the forest floor. |
| Food
/ Supplements |
|
Pygmy
Chameleons are very small and as babys pinhead
crickets or small fruit flies should be fed daily,
preferably in the morning hours. As the pygmy's
get to adult size the can feed on slightly larger
food but as adults will most likely still be on
small to small/medium crickets due to their size.
We have found the best way for them to find the
food and feed well is to embed a small tub into
their substrate so the top of it is at floor
level, we then dropped the food into the tub
making it easy for the chameleons to see and
catch.
All the pygmy chameleons food needs to be
supplemented with calcium and its also a good idea
to gutload their food with either a gutload
formula or a piece of fruit or veg, this provides
the chameleons food with a source of water which
in turn is also good at keeping the chameleon
itself hydrated.
|
| Cleaning |
| As they are
so small pygmy chameleons are very small the
amount of mess they make is also very small. Spot
cleaning can be very awkward, a full change of
substrate and wipe over all the enclosures
plants/vines with a watered down reptile
disinfectant every 2-3 months. Their food bowl if
they have one should be wiped out weekly as
calcium/live foods faeces may begin to build up. |
| Sexing |
| Pygmy
Chameleons are relatively easy to sex, males are
smaller and slimmer than females and have longer
tails, females have shorter tails and their bodies
look rounder / taller than that of a males, males
also show more colouring/patterns on their body
whereas females tend to have a plain / more dull
appearance. |