The royal python (python regius) is a small to medium sized snake commonly kept as pets within the UK. They are native to Western Africa, adult’s range from 3-5 feet in length; with females generally being larger than males. They average live span of a royal python is 20-30 years and the current record in captivity is 48 years. The royal python is also known as the ball python, as they are relatively shy snakes and tend to curl up into a tight ball when they feel insecure. Royal pythons make a good snake for a beginner keeper as well as hobbyists alike.

Royal pythons do not like a lot of space, so it is recommended that hatchlings are kept in medium/large faunariums/rubs/tubs, and adults in a 36x18x18 or 48x18x18 maximum or larger rubs/tubs. You need to provide plenty of hides and décor for the snake to feel secure or they may become stressed which leads to them not eating. A suitable sized water dish is required for the snake to both drink from and bathe in, the water should be changed on a daily basis. Royal pythons are medium to high humidity snakes, so it is recommended that you mist the snake’s enclosure 1-2 times a week with clean water to help rise the humidity. Choosing a good humidity holding substrate can also benefit your royal python, see below.

Aspen - Advantaged: allows the snake to bury it self and hide, looks nice. Disadvantages: will not hold enough humidity and can get messy when wet.
Beech chippings - Advantages: looks good, natural, again allows them to bury. Disadvantages: again wont hold humidity, and tends to grow mould when wet.
Herbi floor/pelleted straw - Advantages: natural, looks good. Disadvantages: Again gets messy when wet.
Orchid bark/repti bark - Advantages: looks natural, holds humidity well. Disadvantages: Tends to be slightly dusty and can also carry wood mite, so it’s recommended to pre treat in a hot oven before putting into the enclosure.

Heat mat: A heat mat is the easiest way to provide your Royal python with a warm end, you should use a heat mat which covers about 1/2 of your vivarium floor space, and place it right at one end. When using a wooden vivarium you need to place the heat mat inside, if you’re using a glass tank, you can place it outside, but make sure you raise the glass tank slightly or it may crack. When using a heat mat, you can use a mat or temperature thermostat, there is no need to use dimming or pulse thermostats, I can also recommend Habistat or Microclimate thermostats. Make sure your thermostat probe is placed in the vivarium on top of your heat mat and substrate, this will allow you to accurately control how warm your warm end gets.

Hatchling royal pythons should be fed 1-2 fluffs/fuzzie mice or a rat pup every 5-7 days, once the snake is eating theses and still seems hungry its time to move up to the next size mouse/rat. The way to size the food for your snake is that it should be slightly smaller than the largest/fattest part of the snake.
Adults will eat medium to large rats or jumbo mice and the occasional chick every 12-14 days. The best way to feed is by warming the mouse/rat/chick up, either on a heat matt or by soaking in warm water and drying it off before offering it to the snake.
Royal pythons can be fussy feeders and can voluntary fast. Meaning they may not take food for a certain time. It is a well known fact for royals to do this, so check your set up is correct and the snake is not stressed or ill. Too much lighting, too large of an enclosure, too much handling or incorrect temperatures are the most common causes of stress causing a snake to not feed.
Many people take the snake out of its enclosure at feeding times and place it in a secure tub/rub for feeding. It is recommended that you do NOT handle the snake for 24-48 hours after feeding due to causing stress/damage to your snake.